Eating out is one of the joys of a trip to Greece. Places are often simple and outdoors, with tables by the sea or in a square under a plane tree, and Greeks themselves eat out often, in big groups.
Types of place
| Place | What it offers |
|---|---|
| Taverna | The classic: home cooking, oven dishes, grills, house wine |
| Estiatorio | A more formal restaurant, often with ready-cooked dishes on display (magirefta) |
| Psarotaverna | Fish taverna, usually by the harbour |
| Ouzeri, tsipouradiko | A place to drink ouzo or tsipouro with small plates; in Volos and Thessaloniki mezedes come with every carafe |
| Mezedopolio | A place specialising in mezedes |
| Psistaria | Grill house |
| Souvlatzidiko | Souvlaki and gyros kiosk or shop, cheap and fast |
| Zacharoplasteio | Pastry shop |
| Kafeneio | The traditional café; see the kafenio |
Meal times
Greeks lunch late, between 1.30 and 4 pm, and dine even later, from 9 pm to midnight, especially in summer. Tourist tavernas open earlier, but at 7 pm you may be dining alone. Afternoon in villages is siesta time.
How to order
- Order several dishes at once to put in the middle and share. There is no order of courses: dishes come when they are ready.
- In many tavernas you can go into the kitchen to see the day's pots and choose.
- Fresh fish is chosen from the counter and paid by the kilo: ask for it to be weighed in front of you and confirm the price before it is cooked. Frozen fish must be marked on the menu with an asterisk or the word katepsygmeno.
- Bread comes with a small cover charge. Water in a jug is often free; bottled water can be ordered.
- At the end many tavernas offer a free dessert or a glass of raki: a gesture of hospitality.
What it costs
| Item | Indicative price |
|---|---|
| Souvlaki or gyros in pitta | €3.50-5 |
| Greek salad | €8-12 |
| Home-style dish (moussaka, gemista) | €10-15 |
| Full taverna dinner with house wine | €20-35 per person |
| Quality fresh fish | €50-90 per kilo, depending on species |
| Freddo espresso | €3-5 |
Prices are higher on Mykonos, Santorini and in Athens' tourist districts. By law menus must show prices including VAT.
Tipping
Tipping is not obligatory and service is included. If you are happy, leave a few euros, around 5-10% of the bill, in cash on the table.
Street food and breakfast
Greek street food is excellent and cheap: souvlaki and gyros in pitta, hot tiropita and spanakopita from bakeries, the koulouri (sesame bread ring) sold on street corners, Thessaloniki's bougatsa with custard or cheese. Traditional breakfast is light: a coffee, a savoury pie or yoghurt with honey and walnuts.
See also Greek cuisine, drinks and the phrasebook.