Athens is one of the oldest cities in the world: inhabited for more than three thousand years, it is where democracy, philosophy as we understand it, and tragic and comic theatre were born. Yet first-time visitors mainly find a modern, noisy and vibrant metropolis that sprawls across the whole plain of Attica, between Mounts Hymettus, Penteli, Parnitha and Egaleo and the waters of the Saronic Gulf. At its centre, impossible to miss, rises the rock of the Acropolis with the Parthenon: a 2,500-year-old temple towering over cafés, markets, rooftops and apartment blocks.
Athens is a city you understand on foot. In a few hours you pass from the ruins of the Agora, where Socrates argued, to Byzantine chapels wedged between shops, from the lanes of Plaka to the Varvakios meat market, from the neoclassical buildings of Syntagma Square to the murals of Exarchia. After the hard years of the economic crisis, the capital has become one of Europe's favourite city-break destinations again, with world-class museums, a lively food scene and nightlife that never stops.
This page is the gateway to Grecia.cc's Athens guide: from here you can reach dedicated pages on every monument, museum and neighbourhood, and all the practical information you need to plan your trip.
Athens in figures
The municipality of Athens has about 643,000 inhabitants (2021 census), but it is only the core of a much larger conurbation: the metropolitan area, made up of dozens of contiguous municipalities such as Piraeus, Peristeri, Kallithea, Glyfada and Marousi, exceeds 3.7 million people, more than a third of Greece's population. The chart shows how the city exploded in the 20th century, above all after the arrival of refugees from Asia Minor in 1922 and with migration from the countryside in the 1960s and 70s; since the 1980s the central municipality has lost residents to the suburbs.
To put it in proportion: Greece has just over 10 million people, and one in three lives in the Athens area. The government, parliament, the headquarters of large companies, the main universities, the ministries and almost all of the country's cultural life are concentrated here. See also Greece's population and the municipalities of Greater Athens.
Don't miss
A first visit to Athens revolves around the historic centre, almost all of which can be covered on foot thanks to the great archaeological promenade, the pedestrian street linking the ancient sites along Dionysiou Areopagitou and Apostolou Pavlou. These are the essentials, each with its own page:
| Place | Why go |
|---|---|
| Acropolis | The sacred rock with the Parthenon, the Erechtheion and its Caryatids, the Propylaea and the temple of Athena Nike |
| Acropolis Museum | The rock's original sculptures in a glass building at its foot, with the Parthenon frieze gallery |
| Ancient Agora | The civic heart of the classical city, with the temple of Hephaestus, one of the best preserved in the Greek world |
| National Archaeological Museum | The richest collection of ancient Greek art: the Mask of Agamemnon, the Artemision bronze, the Antikythera mechanism |
| Roman Agora and Hadrian's Library | The Tower of the Winds and the Roman ruins between Plaka and Monastiraki |
| Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian's Arch | The gigantic columns of Athens' largest temple |
| Panathenaic Stadium | The marble stadium of the first modern Olympics in 1896 |
| Lycabettus, Philopappos and the Areopagus | The hills with views over the whole city, at sunset |
| Syntagma Square | Parliament and the changing of the Evzone guard, the National Garden |
| Plaka and Anafiotika | The oldest quarter, with a hidden Cycladic village below the Acropolis |
| Kerameikos | The ancient monumental cemetery, peaceful and little known |
| Byzantine churches | Kapnikarea, the Little Metropolis, the Holy Apostles and Daphni monastery |
For a wider selection, with advice on planning your visits, see what to see in Athens.
Museums
Athens has dozens of museums, and some are worth the trip on their own. Besides the Acropolis Museum and the National Archaeological Museum, don't miss the Benaki Museum, which tells the story of Greek culture from prehistory to the 20th century in a Kolonaki mansion, the Museum of Cycladic Art, with its famous marble figurines of almost modern shape, and the Byzantine and Christian Museum, with icons, mosaics and frescoes. For today's art there are the National Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST) in the former Fix brewery, the Onassis Foundation and many private galleries. See all Athens museums and contemporary art and street art.
Neighbourhoods
Athens has no single centre but a constellation of very different neighbourhoods, often a few minutes' walk from one another.
| Neighbourhood | Character |
|---|---|
| Plaka | The oldest and most touristy, with neoclassical houses, tavernas and souvenir shops |
| Monastiraki and Psyrri | The flea market, street food, bars and live music |
| Syntagma | The institutional centre, with Parliament and Ermou Street for shopping |
| Kolonaki | Elegant and residential, with boutiques, galleries and fashionable cafés |
| Koukaki and Makrygianni | Quiet and convenient, a stone's throw from the Acropolis and its museum |
| Exarchia, Gazi, Pangrati | The young, alternative districts, with bookshops, street art and bars |
| The Riviera | The southern beaches and seafronts, from Faliro to Vouliagmeni |
For a full overview, with advice on where to stay, see Athens neighbourhoods.
How many days
Two full days are enough for the main sights: one for the Acropolis, its museum and the archaeological promenade down to the Agora, one for the National Archaeological Museum, Syntagma, Lycabettus and the neighbourhoods. With three or four days you can add the smaller museums, the Riviera and a day trip to Cape Sounion, Delphi or a Saronic island. Many travellers use Athens only as a stop before the island ferries: a pity, because the city shows its best to those who stay a little longer. See itineraries from 1 to 4 days.
Getting there and getting around
Athens International Airport Eleftherios Venizelos lies about 30 km from the centre and is linked to the city by the metro (blue line 3), the suburban railway, express buses running day and night, and taxis, which charge a fixed fare to the centre. There are direct flights from most European cities. Ferries to the islands leave from the port of Piraeus, which is linked to the centre by metro line 1 and the tram. See from the airport to the centre.
Getting around the city is easy by metro (three lines, with a fourth under construction), tram, which runs from the centre to the sea, and bus. The basic ticket is valid for 90 minutes on all transport except airport services, and you can pay directly with a contactless card at the gates. The historic centre is compact and largely pedestrianised. Traffic is heavy: hiring a car only makes sense for trips out of town. See getting around Athens.
Where to stay
The most convenient areas for a first visit are Plaka, Monastiraki, Syntagma, Koukaki and Makrygianni, all within walking distance of the Acropolis. If you prefer a residential feel, choose Kolonaki or Pangrati; if you have a dawn ferry, sleep in Piraeus. Short-term rentals have multiplied in recent years, especially in Koukaki. See where to stay in Athens.
Eating and going out
You eat well in Athens without spending a fortune: in traditional tavernas, in mezedopolia where you order small sharing plates with ouzo or tsipouro, in bakeries selling hot pies from early morning and in souvlaki joints open late into the night. The central market (Varvakios) is a spectacle, and some of the most authentic eateries are around it. In the evening life moves to Psyrri, Gazi, Exarchia and Pangrati, to rooftop terraces with Acropolis views and, in summer, to open-air cinemas and seaside bars on the Riviera. See where and what to eat, nightlife and markets and shopping.
When to go
The best seasons are spring (April, May, early June) and autumn (September and October): pleasant temperatures, beautiful light and smaller crowds. July and August are hot and dry, with highs often above 35 degrees and heatwaves that can top 40: on those days visit outdoor sites early in the morning, and the Acropolis may close during the hottest hours. Winter is mild but rainy, perfect for museums and free of queues. See when to go to Athens and events and festivals.
Tickets and opening hours
Entry to the Acropolis costs 30 euros and is booked in time slots on the official website; the other archaeological sites and museums have separate tickets. EU citizens up to the age of 25 enter state sites and museums free, and on certain days of the year entry is free for everyone. See tickets, opening hours and free entry.
Day trips
Athens is an ideal base for exploring central Greece. In less than two hours you can reach the temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion, the sanctuary of Delphi, the Corinth Canal and the sites of the Argolid (Mycenae, Epidaurus, Nafplio). By hydrofoil you can reach Aegina, Hydra and Poros in a day. See day trips from Athens.
Three thousand years of history
The history of Athens is the history of Greece itself. The city's name is linked to Athena, who in myth won the contest with Poseidon by giving the inhabitants the olive tree.
- 13th c. BCA fortified Mycenaean palace stands on the Acropolis.
- 508 BCThe reforms of Cleisthenes give birth to Athenian democracy.
- 480 BCThe Persians burn the city; Themistocles' fleet wins at Salamis.
- 447-432 BCUnder Pericles the Parthenon is built: the golden age.
- 86 BCThe Roman general Sulla sacks Athens.
- 1458The Ottomans take the city, which they hold until 1833.
- 1834Athens becomes capital of the new Kingdom of Greece.
- 2004The city hosts the Olympic Games.
After the classical age Athens remained a great centre of philosophical study for centuries, until the pagan schools were closed in 529. In the Byzantine period it became a provincial town; then it was ruled by Frankish, Catalan and Florentine lords (the Acciaioli), and finally by the Ottomans. When it was chosen as capital in 1834 it had only a few thousand inhabitants: King Otto of Bavaria and his architects redesigned it in neoclassical style. The 20th century brought refugees from Asia Minor, occupation in the Second World War, civil war, the colonels' dictatorship and a huge building boom. Read more in history of Athens and Athens timeline.
Athens and Italy
Links between Athens and Italy are ancient. The Romans admired the city so much that noble families sent their sons to study philosophy and rhetoric there, and Emperor Hadrian enriched it with monuments. In the 15th century it was ruled by the Florentine Acciaioli family, who turned the Propylaea into a palace. In 1687 a shell fired by the Venetian army of Francesco Morosini blew up the Ottoman powder magazine in the Parthenon, destroying its centre. In the 20th century the city was occupied by German and Italian forces between 1941 and 1943. Since 1909 Athens has been home to the Italian Archaeological School, which has led major excavations across Greece, from Crete to Lemnos. See also Italians in Greece.
Quick tips
- Book the Acropolis in advance and choose the first morning slot or late afternoon.
- Wear comfortable shoes: the polished marble of the ancient sites is slippery.
- In summer drink plenty and wear a hat: shade at archaeological sites is rare.
- Watch out for pickpockets on the metro, especially line 1 and the Monastiraki and Omonia stations.
- Transport strikes are frequent but announced in advance: check the news before heading to the airport.
More tips in practical tips and safety, Athens on a budget and Athens with children.