Agrinio is the most populous city of Aetolia-Acarnania, the large region of western Greece between the Gulf of Patras, the Ionian Sea and the Pindus mountains. With about 51,000 inhabitants it is a lively agricultural and commercial centre, little known to tourists, at the heart of a land rich in lakes, rivers, mountains and ancient sites. Those travelling between Patras and Epirus, or arriving from Italy by ferry at Patras or Igoumenitsa, can stop here to discover a Greece far from the tourist circuits.
The tobacco city
Agrinio's modern history is bound up with tobacco. Between the late 19th and mid-20th centuries the plain around the city became one of Greece's main growing areas, and large warehouses and factories rose in the city. In 1930 the Papastratos company, one of the country's biggest cigarette makers, opened a large factory here, and prosperity brought mansions, schools, a theatre and the Panetolikos football club. Tobacco workers were at the forefront of important labour struggles. Today many tobacco buildings have been restored and turned into cultural spaces, and the large Papastratos park is the city's green lung.
Ancient history
In antiquity the region was home to the Aetolians and the Acarnanians, peoples the Athenians thought rather rough, but who in the Hellenistic period created the Aetolian League, one of the powers of Greece. Its religious and political centre was the sanctuary of Thermos, on the shores of Lake Trichonida. The ancient city of Stratos, a few kilometres from Agrinio, was the capital of the Acarnanians, with walls, a temple of Zeus and a theatre.
What to see
| Place | Why |
|---|---|
| Central square and pedestrian streets | The heart of the city, with cafés and shops always busy |
| Papastratos park | A large city park created around the tobacco factory |
| Archaeological museum | Finds from Stratos, Thermos and the region |
| Tobacco buildings | Early 20th-century warehouses and mansions |
| Agios Christoforos hill | A viewpoint over the plain and the lakes |
Lake Trichonida
A few kilometres south-east of the city lies Lake Trichonida, Greece's largest natural lake, about 20 km long and surrounded by hills, villages, olive groves and woods. It is a protected environment, with waterbirds and endemic fish, and its shores offer tavernas, small beaches and walks. Beside it is the smaller Lake Lysimachia. On the north shore, the village of Thermo has the site and museum of the ancient sanctuary of the Aetolian League, with the remains of temples of Apollo.
Rivers and mountains
Agrinio lies near the Achelous, Greece's longest river, which in myth was a river god defeated by Heracles in the struggle for Deianira. Along its course large reservoirs have been built, such as Kremasta and Kastraki, surrounded by wooded mountains. To the north and east rise the mountains of Aetolia and Agrafa, with isolated villages, monasteries such as Prousos, gorges and trails for experienced hikers. See Heracles.
Around Agrinio
| Destination | Distance | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Stratos | 10 km | The ancient Acarnanian capital, with theatre and temple of Zeus |
| Lake Trichonida and Thermos | 15-30 km | The great lake and the Aetolian League sanctuary |
| Missolonghi | 40 km | The town of the 1826 siege and Lord Byron, with its lagoon and botargo |
| Aitoliko | 35 km | A small town on an island in the lagoon, linked by bridges |
| Nafpaktos | 60 km | Ancient Lepanto, with its Venetian harbour, see Patras |
| Ionian coast | 60-80 km | The beaches of Astakos, Mytikas and nearby islands, towards Lefkada |
Missolonghi and Byron
About 40 km south, the town of Missolonghi, facing a large lagoon, is one of the symbolic places of the War of Independence. The English poet Lord Byron, who had joined the Greek insurgents, died here in 1824, and here in 1826, after a long siege, the inhabitants attempted a desperate sortie in which almost all died. The Garden of Heroes keeps their memory. The lagoon is famous for avgotaracho, grey mullet botargo.
Getting there
Agrinio lies on the Ionia Odos motorway, linking Patras (about an hour, via the Rio-Antirrio bridge) with Ioannina and Igoumenitsa. KTEL buses connect the city with Athens (about 4 hours), Patras and Epirus. The nearest airport is Aktion-Preveza, about an hour away.
City life
Agrinio is a young, lively city, with a university campus and busy café and bar life in the centre. In the evening the pedestrian streets fill up, and in summer people head for tavernas on Lake Trichonida or the sea. Prices are moderate, and the city is a good base for exploring western Greece.
When to go and where to stay
Agrinio has a Mediterranean climate with hot, sometimes very hot summers on the plain and mild, rainy winters. Spring is the loveliest season for the lakes, rivers and mountains, with green fields and woods in flower; autumn for colours and hiking; summer for combining the city with the Ionian coast and nearby islands. The city has mid-range hotels at moderate prices, while on the shores of Lake Trichonida and in the mountain villages there are quiet guesthouses and farm stays. In August many Aetolian villages hold patron-saint festivals with traditional music, dancing and long open-air tables, perfect occasions to discover the hospitality of rural Greece.
Tips
- Agrinio is a convenient stop for those arriving from Italy at Patras and continuing to Lefkada, Epirus or Meteora.
- Try lake fish and meat from the mountain villages.
- Spring is ideal for the lakes and mountains; summer for the Ionian coast.
See also Central Greece, Patras and Greek cities.