Kalamata is the largest city in the southern Peloponnese and the capital of Messinia, with about 59,000 inhabitants. It faces the Messinian Gulf at the foot of the Taygetus peaks, snow-covered in winter while in town people walk in shirtsleeves. Its name is known worldwide for Kalamata olives, dark and almond-shaped, and for the region's olive oil. It is a modern city with a long urban beach, a compact old town below the castle and an international airport that makes it the ideal gateway to the western and southern Peloponnese.
History
Kalamata stands on the site of ancient Pharai, mentioned by Homer. In the Middle Ages it was a lordship of the Frankish knights of the Villehardouin family, who built the castle in the early 13th century; it then passed to the Byzantines, Venetians and Ottomans. Kalamata has a special place in modern Greek history: on 23 March 1821 it was the first city liberated by insurgents led by Theodoros Kolokotronis and Petros Mavromichalis, the bey of the Mani, at the start of the War of Independence. In 1986 a strong earthquake badly damaged the city, which has been rebuilt.
What to see
| Place | Why |
|---|---|
| Castle | The Villehardouin fortress on the hill, with views over the city and the gulf; it hosts summer performances |
| Old town | The streets around the castle, with churches, restored houses and workshops |
| Church of the Holy Apostles | A Byzantine church where the 1821 revolution was proclaimed |
| Kalograion monastery | Nuns have woven the famous Kalamata silk here for centuries |
| Archaeological Museum of Messinia | Finds from the Mycenaean to the Roman period |
| Railway park | An open-air museum of historic locomotives and carriages at the old station |
| Seafront and beach | Several kilometres of pebble and sand beach, with bars and tavernas |
| Central market | Olives, oil, cheeses, dried figs and honey from Messinia |
Olives, oil and food
Messinia is one of the Mediterranean's great olive regions. Kalamata olives and the area's extra virgin olive oil have protected designation of origin. In the city try lalagia, thin strips of fried dough, sausage flavoured with orange peel, pasteli, a sesame-and-honey bar, dried figs and honey sweets such as diples. Seafront tavernas serve fish from the gulf. See Greek cuisine.
Dance and silk
Kalamata gave its name to the kalamatianos, one of the most widespread traditional Greek dances, danced in a circle at every festival and wedding. The city is also famous for silk, hand-woven by the nuns of Kalograion monastery: brightly dyed Kalamata silk scarves are a traditional souvenir. In July the International Dance Festival brings companies from all over the world. See Greek dances.
Festivals and traditions
Kalamata's most spectacular festival is the saitopolemos, the "rocket war" of Easter Monday: two teams of masked men in protective clothing light and throw by hand the saites, cardboard tubes packed with gunpowder that whizz along the ground amid smoke and sparks, recalling, it is said, tricks the insurgents used against the Ottomans. On 23 March the city marks the anniversary of the 1821 liberation with a parade. In summer the castle hosts the dance festival and open-air concerts, and Messinian villages hold patron-saint festivals with traditional music, dancing and long communal tables.
When to go
Kalamata has a mild climate all year. The swimming season runs from May to October; April, May, September and October are ideal for combining sea, archaeological sites and hikes on Taygetus. In November the olive harvest begins, a special time to see country life and taste new oil at the presses. In winter the city is quiet and the snow-capped mountains above the sea are a surprising sight.
Beaches
The city beach is long and organised, but the finest are nearby: to the west Petalidi, Koroni and the Messinian peninsula coast; to the south-east Kardamyli, Stoupa and the coves of the Mani; further away, towards Pylos, the famous omega-shaped bay of Voidokilia, one of Greece's most beautiful beaches.
Getting there
| Transport | Details |
|---|---|
| Plane | Kalamata airport (KLX), 10 km away, with direct summer flights from many European cities |
| Car | Motorway from Athens, about 3 hours (240 km) via Tripoli |
| Bus | Frequent KTEL services to Athens and Messinian towns |
| Ferry | Seasonal links with Kythira and Crete in some years; the main ports for Italy are Patras and Igoumenitsa |
Day trips
| Destination | Distance | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Ancient Messene | 30 km | One of Greece's best-preserved ancient cities, with stadium, theatre and walls |
| Kardamyli and Stoupa | 35-45 km | Stone villages by the sea in Messinian Mani; writer Patrick Leigh Fermor lived in Kardamyli |
| Mani and Diros caves | 75 km | Stone tower houses and underground caves explored by boat |
| Pylos and Navarino | 50 km | The bay of the 1827 battle and the Mycenaean palace of Nestor |
| Methoni and Koroni | 60 km | Two great Venetian sea castles, the "eyes of Venice" |
| Mystras and Sparta | 60 km (over Taygetus) | The UNESCO-listed Byzantine city, see Sparta |
Kalamata and Venice
The Messinian coast bears the marks of Venice's long presence: the fortresses of Methoni and Koroni, at the tip of the peninsula, were the bases from which the Serenissima controlled the routes to the East, and the Venetians called them the "eyes of the Republic". Kalamata too was Venetian at the end of the 17th century, during Francesco Morosini's conquest of the Morea. See Italians in Greece.
Tips
- Kalamata is a good base for a week in the southern Peloponnese, with a hire car.
- Buy oil and olives directly from producers or at the market.
- Spring and autumn are ideal for archaeological sites; in summer the sea is splendid but it is hot.
See also the Peloponnese and Greek cities.