Trikala is a city of western Thessaly, with about 62,000 inhabitants, on the edge of the great Thessalian plain at the foot of the Pindus mountains. It is crossed by the Lithaios river, spanned by many bridges and lined with trees and cafés, which gives it a calm, pleasant atmosphere. For many travellers it is only a stop on the way to Meteora, about twenty kilometres away, but the city deserves a few hours: it has a lively centre, a well-preserved Ottoman quarter, one of Greece's finest mosques and a history going back to myth.
The city of Asclepius
In antiquity Trikala was called Trikki and was considered the home of the cult of Asclepius, the god of medicine, son of Apollo, raised according to myth by the centaur Chiron on Mount Pelion. Homer records that Asclepius's sons, Machaon and Podalirius, left Trikki for the Trojan War as doctors to the Greek army. An Asklepieion stood here, thought to be one of the oldest, and some remains have been excavated in the city centre. See Apollo and places of myth.
History
In the Byzantine era the city was fortified with the castle that still dominates the centre. The Ottomans took it at the end of the 14th century and ruled it for five centuries: Trikala was an important administrative centre, and the Varousi quarter and the Koursoum mosque survive from that time. It became part of Greece in 1881. Vassilis Tsitsanis, the greatest composer of rebetiko, was born here in 1915; he wrote hundreds of songs, including the celebrated Synnefiasmeni Kyriaki, composed during the occupation.
What to see
| Place | Why |
|---|---|
| Fortress (Frourio) | The Byzantine castle on the hill, with its clock tower, a park and a view over the city and Meteora |
| Koursoum mosque | A 16th-century mosque designed by the great Ottoman architect Sinan, with a broad, elegant dome |
| Varousi quarter | Streets of Ottoman and 19th-century houses with wooden balconies and post-Byzantine churches |
| Lithaios river | Riverside walks, bridges and cafés |
| Tsitsanis Museum | In the old Ottoman prison, devoted to the composer and to rebetiko |
| Matsopoulos mills | An old mill complex turned cultural centre; in December it hosts the "Mill of the Elves", a large Christmas village |
| Asklepieion remains | Excavations of the ancient healing sanctuary in the centre |
Varousi and Sinan's mosque
The Varousi quarter, at the foot of the fortress, was the Christian area of the Ottoman city. Its narrow streets are lined with two-storey houses with overhanging wooden upper floors, inner courtyards, massive doors and small churches with carved iconostases. Strolling there at sunset, as the lights come on over the castle hill, is one of Trikala's pleasures. Nearby, close to the river, stands the Koursoum mosque (or Osman Shah mosque), built around 1550 to a design by Mimar Sinan, architect to Suleiman the Magnificent and creator of the great mosques of Istanbul and Edirne. It is one of the few Sinan buildings in Greece, with a dome that was among the widest in the Balkans; restored, it hosts exhibitions and cultural events.
Tsitsanis and rebetiko
Vassilis Tsitsanis left Trikala young to study law in Athens but became the greatest rebetiko songwriter, bringing this music of poor districts to an ever wider audience with refined melodies and lyrics of love and longing. During the German occupation he played in Thessaloniki, where he wrote many of his most famous songs. The museum dedicated to him, in Trikala's old Ottoman prison, displays instruments, scores, photographs and recordings, and every year the city honours him with concerts and a festival. See the bouzouki.
Where to stay
The centre, near the river and the main square, is the most convenient area, with hotels and apartments cheaper than in Kalambaka. For waking up in front of the Meteora rocks, Kalambaka and the village of Kastraki offer guesthouses and small hotels with views. In the Pindus mountains, at Pertouli and Elati, there are mountain hotels and refuges.
A modern city
Trikala is known in Greece as a forward-looking city: it is flat and full of cycle lanes, and the bicycle is many residents' favourite way to get around; it was among the first Greek cities to try digital services for citizens, public wi-fi and even a small self-driving bus. The centre, with the main square and pedestrian Asklipiou Street, is lively with cafés, bars and shops.
Food
Trikala has the cooking of Thessaly and the Pindus: grilled meat, sausages, mountain cheeses, pies, river trout and the mezedes of the riverside tsipouradika. In the nearby mountain villages people eat goat and lamb, mushrooms and chestnuts. See Greek cuisine.
Meteora and surroundings
| Destination | Distance | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Meteora and Kalambaka | 20 km | The monasteries on the rocks, a UNESCO site |
| Pyli | 20 km | The 16th-century arched stone bridge and the Byzantine church of Porta Panagia |
| Pindus mountains (Pertouli, Elati) | 40-50 km | Mountain villages, fir forests, skiing in winter and hiking in summer |
| Theopetra cave | 25 km | One of Europe's oldest inhabited caves, with a stone wall over twenty thousand years old |
| Lake Plastiras | 70 km | A reservoir among the mountains, with trails and tavernas |
Getting there
Trikala is about 330 km from Athens (4 hours by car) and 210 km from Thessaloniki. KTEL buses link it with Athens, Thessaloniki, Larissa and Kalambaka; the railway comes from Palaiofarsalos, on the Athens-Thessaloniki line, and continues to Kalambaka. The nearest airports are Volos and Thessaloniki.
Events and when to go
In December the Mill of the Elves draws hundreds of thousands of visitors from all over Greece with markets, lights and children's shows. In summer riverside festivals and concerts liven up the evenings. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for the city and Meteora; winter is cold but atmospheric, with snow on the nearby mountains.
Tips
- Trikala is a livelier, less touristy alternative to Kalambaka for staying near Meteora.
- Hire a bicycle and get around like the locals.
- Lovers of Greek music should not miss the Tsitsanis museum.
See also Thessaly, Larissa and Greek cities.