Alexander the Great itinerary

No figure of antiquity left a greater mark than Alexander the Great. In just thirteen years on the throne, the young king of Macedon conquered an empire stretching from Greece to Egypt and India, spreading Greek language and culture across half the world. But before he became a legend, Alexander was a prince raised among the hills and rivers of Macedonia, in northern Greece: here he was born, here he studied with Aristotle, here his father Philip II was buried, and from here he set out on his great expedition to Asia.

This six-day itinerary starts from Thessaloniki and follows the places of the Macedonian dynasty: the capital Pella, with its mosaics, Aristotle's school at Mieza, the royal tombs of Vergina, one of the most thrilling archaeological discoveries of the 20th century, the sanctuary of Dion at the foot of Mount Olympus, the lion of Amphipolis and the city of Philippi. It is a journey through less touristy Greece, among vineyards, mountains, ultra-modern museums and some of the country's richest cooking.

The life of Alexander

Alexander was born in Pella in 356 BC, son of King Philip II, who had made Macedon the dominant power in Greece, and of Princess Olympias. As a boy he was taught by the philosopher Aristotle, who instructed him in philosophy, medicine and poetry: he is said to have slept with a copy of the Iliad under his pillow. In 336, aged twenty, after his father's assassination in the theatre of Aigai, he became king. Two years later he left for Asia: he defeated the Persians at the Granicus, Issus and Gaugamela, founded Alexandria in Egypt and reached India. He died in Babylon in 323, aged only thirty-two. See also our pages on Alexander the Great and Hellenistic Greece.

Day 1: Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki was founded in 315 BC by King Cassander, who named it after his wife, Alexander's half-sister. The Archaeological Museum is the ideal starting point: it displays the gold of the Macedonian tombs, wreaths of wafer-thin gold leaves, jewellery and the Derveni Krater, a great gilded bronze vase with scenes of Dionysus and Ariadne, one of the masterpieces of ancient metalwork. On the waterfront, a large equestrian statue of Alexander, on his horse Bucephalus, looks out over the gulf, not far from the White Tower, symbol of the city. In the evening dine in the Ladadika district.

Where to stay: in Thessaloniki.

Day 2: Pella and Mieza

Pick up the car and in under an hour you reach Pella, capital of the Macedonian kingdom and Alexander's birthplace. The site preserves the streets, houses and agora of a great Hellenistic city, but the real treasures are the pebble mosaics, among the oldest in the Greek world: the lion hunt, with two young men who may be Alexander and his general Craterus, and Dionysus riding a panther. The modern museum tells of daily life in the royal city.

In the afternoon continue into the hills around Naoussa to Mieza, where, in a secluded spot of caves, springs and woods called the Nymphaeum, Aristotle taught the young Alexander and the sons of the Macedonian nobles. The place is atmospheric and rarely crowded. Naoussa is also home to xinomavro, the great red wine of Macedonia: some wineries offer tours and tastings.

Where to stay: in Naoussa or Veria, for two nights.

Day 3: Vergina and the royal tombs

The site of Vergina, ancient Aigai, the first capital of the Macedonians, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most moving places in Greece. In 1977 the archaeologist Manolis Andronikos discovered here, beneath a great earth mound, several intact royal tombs, including the one attributed to Philip II, Alexander's father. The Museum of the Royal Tombs was built inside the mound itself: you go down into an evocative half-light and see the painted façades of the tombs, the weapons, the gold oak-leaf wreath and the gold larnax with the sixteen-rayed sun, which has become the symbol of Greek Macedonia. It is breathtaking.

Nearby, visit the Palace of Aigai, one of the largest buildings of classical Greece, reopened after a long restoration, and the remains of the theatre where Philip II was killed in 336. In the afternoon stroll around Veria, with its small Byzantine churches hidden among the houses and the old Jewish quarter by the river.

Day 4: Dion and Mount Olympus

Drive south (about an hour and a half) to Dion, the sacred sanctuary at the foot of Olympus, where the Macedonian kings held festivals and games in honour of Zeus and the Muses. Here Alexander made great sacrifices before leaving for Asia. The archaeological park is an enchanted place, among springs, reeds and terrapins, with the remains of the temples of Isis, Demeter and Zeus, baths and a theatre. The museum displays statues and a rare ancient water organ.

In the afternoon climb to Litochoro, the village at the base of Mount Olympus, Greece's highest mountain, with its summit of Mytikas at 2,918 metres, home of the gods. Even without going to the top, you can walk the Enipeas Gorge up to Prionia, a trail of waterfalls, pools and rock walls.

Where to stay: in Litochoro.

Day 5: Amphipolis and Philippi

Head north-east (about two and a half hours), along the gulf, to Amphipolis, the ancient city on the River Strymon where Alexander gathered his fleet before leaving for Asia. On the way you pass the Lion of Amphipolis, a large 4th-century BC marble funerary monument, reassembled near the bridge. On Kasta hill, between 2012 and 2014, a grand Macedonian tomb was excavated, with sphinxes, caryatids and a mosaic of the abduction of Persephone, which led many to dream of a tomb of a member of Alexander's family. The Amphipolis museum tells the city's story.

In the afternoon you reach UNESCO-listed Philippi, the city Philip II refounded in 356 BC and named after himself, to control the region's gold mines. In 42 BC, on the plain below, Antony and Octavian defeated Brutus and Cassius, Caesar's assassins, and here the apostle Paul founded the first Christian community in Europe. You visit the theatre, the Roman forum and the great early Christian basilicas.

Where to stay: in Kavala, the seaside city with its fortress and Ottoman aqueduct.

Day 6: back to Thessaloniki

From Kavala to Thessaloniki is about two hours. If you are flying from Kavala, use Kavala Airport, with flights mainly in summer.

How much it costs

To save money: Macedonia is one of the cheapest regions of Greece for eating and sleeping; from November to March site tickets are reduced, and EU citizens under 25 enter free.

Practical information

• Vergina: the tombs museum is climate-controlled and photography is not allowed; summer weekends are busy, so go early in the morning.
• Olympus: climbing to the summit takes two days, with a night in a refuge, and mountain experience; refuges are open from May to October.
• Roads: the Egnatia motorway quickly links Thessaloniki, Veria and Kavala; it has tolls.
• Food: Macedonia is famous for Florina peppers, Thessaloniki pastries such as bougatsa, and the wines of Naoussa and Drama.
• Documents: EU citizens only need a valid identity card. See getting to Greece.

Variations

• Meteora: two and a half hours from Veria; see the Byzantine itinerary.
• Halkidiki and Mount Athos: three peninsulas of beaches and pine woods south-east of Thessaloniki.
• Lake Prespa and Kastoria: to the west, among lakes, pelicans and Byzantine churches; see our page on Greek Macedonia.

What to read before you go

The fullest ancient source is Arrian's Anabasis of Alexander; Plutarch's Life of Alexander is more novelistic and enjoyable. Among novels, Mary Renault's Alexander trilogy and Valerio Massimo Manfredi's Alexander series have won over countless readers. For a modern history, Robin Lane Fox's biography is a classic.

Final tips

• Pace: Vergina deserves half a day on its own; don't squeeze it in with too many other sites.
• Combinations: this itinerary combines well with the Byzantine itinerary, which passes through Thessaloniki and Meteora.
• A tip: at Vergina, before entering the museum, sit for a few minutes on the grass in front of the mound: beneath that grassy hill, for more than two thousand years, Alexander's father lay at rest.

See also our other itineraries in Greece.

Vergina on the map

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