Kavala is the main city of eastern Macedonia, with about 54,000 inhabitants, facing a bay of the northern Aegean opposite the island of Thassos. Its profile is unmistakable: an amphitheatre of houses climbing from the port to the rocky Panagia peninsula, crowned by a Byzantine castle, with a long arched aqueduct linking it to the hills. It is an elegant, little-touristed city with an atmospheric old town, neoclassical mansions tied to the tobacco trade and a seafront where people stroll in the evening watching the ships for Thassos.
History
Kavala stands on the site of ancient Neapolis, founded by colonists from Thassos in the 7th century BC and later the port of nearby Philippi, founded by Philip II of Macedon. The Via Egnatia, the great Roman road from the Adriatic to Byzantium, passed through here. In AD 49-50 the apostle Paul landed at Neapolis and founded at Philippi Europe's first Christian community; a mosaic in the church of St Nicholas commemorates the event. In the Byzantine era the city was called Christoupolis. The Ottomans took it in 1391 and rebuilt it in the 16th century, with the aqueduct commissioned by Suleiman the Magnificent. Kavala became Greek in 1913, during the Balkan Wars; it was occupied by Bulgaria in both world wars.
Mehmet Ali and the Imaret
In 1769 Mehmet Ali was born in Kavala, an Albanian officer in Ottoman service who became pasha of Egypt and founded the dynasty that ruled the country until 1952; he is considered the founder of modern Egypt. His birthplace in the old town is a museum, with an equestrian statue in front. In gratitude to his home town Mehmet Ali built the Imaret, a large complex of domes and courtyards that housed a Koranic school and a soup kitchen for the poor, now an elegant hotel.
What to see
| Place | Why |
|---|---|
| Castle (Kastro) | The Byzantine and Ottoman fortress atop the Panagia peninsula, with its tower and bay views |
| Old town (Panagia) | Lanes, Ottoman houses with wooden balconies, stairways and churches |
| Aqueduct (Kamares) | The great 16th-century arched aqueduct, symbol of the city |
| Imaret | The domed Ottoman complex built by Mehmet Ali |
| Mehmet Ali's house | The birthplace of the founder of modern Egypt |
| Archaeological Museum | Finds from Neapolis, Philippi and ancient Amphipolis |
| Tobacco Museum | The story of the oriental tobacco that made the city rich |
| Lighthouse and port | The walk along the breakwater and the seafront |
The tobacco city
Between the late 19th and mid-20th centuries Kavala was one of the world's leading ports for the trade in oriental tobacco, grown on the plains of Macedonia and Thrace. Greek, Jewish, Austrian and American firms built monumental warehouses here, where thousands of workers, mostly women, sorted and packed the leaves. Kavala became a centre of labour struggles and cosmopolitan culture. Many warehouses have been restored and turned into cultural spaces, offices and the Tobacco Museum.
Philippi
Just 15 km from the city lies Philippi, a UNESCO site since 2016. Founded by Philip II in 356 BC, it is famous for the battle of 42 BC, in which Mark Antony and Octavian defeated Brutus and Cassius, the assassins of Julius Caesar. The site includes the Roman forum, an ancient theatre hosting a summer festival, large early Christian basilicas and the spot where, by tradition, St Paul baptised Lydia, Europe's first Christian, on the banks of a stream. See Roman Greece.
Beaches and food
Along the coast west of the city are sandy beaches popular with residents, such as Batis, Kalamitsa and Rapsani, and further away the long beaches of Nea Peramos and Ammolofi, with pale sand dunes. Kavala's cooking is mostly seafood: anchovies and sardines from the gulf are famous, along with mussels and shrimps; among sweets, kourabies and specialities of eastern tradition. See Greek cuisine.
Getting there
| Transport | Details |
|---|---|
| Plane | Megas Alexandros airport (KVA) at Chrysoupoli, about 30 km away, with flights from Athens and summer flights from Europe |
| Car | Egnatia Odos motorway, about 160 km from Thessaloniki (under 2 hours) |
| Bus | KTEL to Thessaloniki, Athens and the towns of Thrace |
| Ferry | Ships to Thassos from Kavala and Keramoti, and links with Lemnos and the North-East Aegean islands |
Around Kavala
| Destination | Distance | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Philippi | 15 km | The UNESCO-listed Roman and early Christian site |
| Thassos | 1 hour by ferry | The green island with marble beaches and pine forests |
| Amphipolis | 55 km | The Lion of Amphipolis and the great Macedonian tomb found in 2014 |
| Alistrati cave | 60 km | One of Greece's most beautiful caves |
| Nestos delta | 40 km | Riverine forests, lagoons and birdwatching |
| Drama | 35 km | A town of springs and parks, centre of a wine area |
Where to stay and when to go
The best accommodation is in the old town, with small hotels in restored houses overlooking the port, and along the seafront, convenient for ferries and restaurants. If you prefer the beach, stay at western coastal resorts such as Kalamitsa and Batis, or on Thassos. Prices are lower than on the more famous islands. The climate is Mediterranean with continental influences: hot but breezy summers, cool and sometimes cold winters, with the north wind. The best period is May to October; July and August are ideal for combining city and sea, while spring and autumn are perfect for visiting Philippi, Amphipolis and the caves without excessive heat.
Tips
- Climb to the old town at sunset, when the castle and aqueduct light up.
- Kavala is a good base for northern Greece and the island of Thassos.
- In August the Castle Festival and other events liven up the old town.
See also Greek Macedonia, Thrace and Greek cities.