Chalkida (Chalkis or Chalcis) is the capital of Euboea, Greece's second-largest island after Crete, which runs parallel to the coast of Central Greece and Attica. The city stands on both sides of the Euripus strait, where the island comes closest to the mainland: just 40 metres of sea, crossed by a swing bridge and a modern suspension bridge. With about 64,000 inhabitants, an hour's drive from Athens, it is a lively commercial city with a busy waterfront and a long history, little known to foreign tourists but much loved by Athenians for its fish ouzeris.
The mystery of the Euripus
The Euripus strait has been famous since antiquity for its currents, which run fast and reverse direction several times a day, sometimes regularly, sometimes seemingly chaotically. The phenomenon, linked to the tides of the two gulfs the strait connects, intrigued the ancients: according to a legend Aristotle, who died in Chalkida in 322 BC, threw himself into the sea in frustration at failing to explain it. The story is baseless, but people still stop on the old bridge to watch the water racing below. The swing bridge opens at night to let ships through.
History
In the archaic age Chalkida was one of Greece's most powerful cities: its colonists founded cities in Sicily and southern Italy, including Cumae, Rhegion, Naxos and Zancle (Messina), and on the peninsula that took its name, Halkidiki. From the Euboean alphabet, brought to Italy by the colonists of Cumae, came the Etruscan and then the Latin alphabet: so the letters we use today also have roots in Chalkida. See Greek colonies and the Greek alphabet.
In the Middle Ages the island was taken by the Venetians, who called it Negroponte and made it one of their main Aegean bases. In 1470 Sultan Mehmed II captured it after a bloody siege in which the Venetian bailo Paolo Erizzo died; the fall of Negroponte was a trauma for Venice. Almost four centuries of Ottoman rule followed, until the city joined the Kingdom of Greece in 1830-1833. Chalkida is also home to one of Europe's oldest Romaniote Jewish communities, continuously present for over two thousand years, with a synagogue still in use.
What to see
| Place | Why |
|---|---|
| Strait and old bridge | The place to watch the Euripus currents and the swing bridge |
| Suspension bridge | The large cable-stayed bridge of 1993, lit up in the evening |
| Karababa fortress | An Ottoman fortress of 1686 on the hill on the mainland side, with views over the strait and the city |
| Kastro | The old fortified quarter, with the Emir Zade mosque, an Ottoman fountain and an aqueduct |
| Agia Paraskevi basilica | A Byzantine church remodelled in Gothic style by the Venetians |
| Synagogue | The synagogue of the Romaniote community |
| Archaeological Museum | Finds from Chalkida, Eretria and the Euboean colonies |
| Waterfront | The Kotsou and harbour promenade, with cafés and ouzeris |
Eating
Chalkida's waterfront is famous for its ouzeris and fish tavernas, serving fresh fish, seafood, grilled octopus, sardines and small fried fish with ouzo or tsipouro. Many Athenians come specially at weekends for a fish lunch facing the strait. Euboea also produces excellent cheeses, honey and wines. See Greek cuisine.
The city today
Chalkida is a working, commercial city, with a port, industry nearby and a university, and its daily life runs far from international tourism. The centre stretches along the sea and the parallel shopping streets, with shops, markets and cafés busy at all hours. The squares near the old bridge and the Kotsou waterfront are the evening meeting places, when families stroll and young people fill the bars. In summer people swim at nearby beaches such as Alykes and Lefkandi, and concerts and shows are staged in the Karababa fortress.
When to go
The climate is Mediterranean, with hot summers cooled by breezes off the strait and mild winters. Chalkida is good to visit all year, even as a Sunday trip from Athens. For exploring Euboea the best times are spring, when the mountains are in flower, and early autumn, when the sea is still warm and the beaches quiet. In August the island's resorts fill with Athenian families.
The island of Euboea
Chalkida is the gateway to a large, varied island, still little touristed:
| Destination | Distance | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Eretria | 20 km | An ancient city with theatre, temples, mosaics and a museum; now a beach resort |
| Lefkandi | 10 km | An important Iron Age site with a large funerary building |
| Mount Dirfys and Steni | 30 km | The island's highest mountain, with mountain villages, chestnut woods and trails |
| Northern Euboea | 80-150 km | Forests, beaches, the village of Limni and the Edipsos spa, used since Roman times |
| Southern Euboea | 100-130 km | Karystos, wild beaches and the Dimosari gorge |
| Sea | 10-40 km | Gulf beaches and, on the Aegean coast, wilder, windier beaches |
In 2021 huge fires burned large forests in the north of the island, which are slowly recovering.
Getting there
Chalkida is about 80 km from Athens: by car it takes an hour on the Thessaloniki motorway with the turn-off at Schimatari; the suburban train links the city with Athens in about an hour and a half; there are also frequent KTEL buses. Athens airport is about an hour and a quarter away.
Tips
- Chalkida is ideal as a day trip from Athens, combined with Eretria, or as a base for exploring Euboea.
- In the evening the waterfront is the heart of city life; at weekends book at the best ouzeris.
- To see the strait's currents, stop on the old bridge for a few minutes: the change of direction is a curious sight.
See also Central Greece and Greek cities.