You eat well in Athens at every price level. Greek cuisine is simple and based on excellent ingredients: olive oil, vegetables, pulses, cheeses, grilled meat, fish and herbs. The capital adds the tradition of neighbourhood tavernas, a lively street food scene and, in recent years, a generation of chefs reinterpreting regional dishes, with several restaurants recognised by international guides.
Types of eatery
| Eatery | What you eat | Atmosphere |
|---|---|---|
| Taverna | Oven dishes, grilled meat, salads, house wine | Homely, outdoor tables |
| Mezedopolio | Small sharing plates (mezedes) | Informal, people linger |
| Ouzeri and tsipouradiko | Mezedes with ouzo or tsipouro, often fish and octopus | Convivial, sometimes with music |
| Psarotaverna | Fresh fish by weight, seafood | By the sea or in Piraeus |
| Mageirio | Cooked dishes of the day (mageirefta) on display | Cheap, at lunchtime |
| Souvlatzidiko | Souvlaki, gyros, pitta | Quick, open late |
| Fournos | Bakery with pies, koulouria, biscuits | Breakfast and snacks |
| Zacharoplasteio | Pastry shop with Greek and eastern sweets | Afternoon and after dinner |
Dishes to try
- Souvlaki and gyros: skewers or meat sliced from the spit, in pitta with tomato, onion and tzatziki, or on a plate with chips.
- Moussaka and pastitsio: baked dishes with aubergine or pasta, meat and béchamel.
- Gemista: tomatoes and peppers stuffed with rice and herbs.
- Fava: yellow split-pea purée with onion and capers, typical of Santorini.
- Keftedes and soutzoukakia: fried meatballs or meatballs in spiced sauce.
- Horiatiki: Greek salad with tomato, cucumber, onion, olives and feta.
- Saganaki: fried cheese; gigantes: giant beans in tomato.
- Kolokythokeftedes: courgette fritters; horta: boiled wild greens with oil and lemon.
- Grilled octopus, fried squid and sardines in the ouzeris.
See also eating in Greece and Greek recipes.
Breakfast and street food
Athenians breakfast on the street: a sesame koulouri bought from a cart, a hot tiropita or spanakopita from the bakery, a bougatsa (filo filled with custard or cheese, sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon). Coffee is a ritual: freddo espresso and freddo cappuccino, shaken coffee over ice, were invented in Greece and are drunk all year, alongside traditional Greek coffee and frappé. In the evening loukoumades, fritters with honey and cinnamon, are the favourite street sweet. See Greek sweets.
The central market
The central market (Varvakios Agora) on Athinas Street, open since 1886, is the most authentic place to understand Athenians' relationship with food: meat and fish stalls under iron vaults, fruit and vegetables opposite, and in the surrounding streets shops selling spices, olives, cheeses, pulses and cured meats. Around the market are eateries open from early morning, serving soups and simple dishes at low prices. See markets and shopping.
Where to eat by area
| Area | What to expect |
|---|---|
| Plaka | Splendid setting, many tourist traps, a few historic tavernas |
| Monastiraki and Psyrri | Souvlaki, mezedopolia with music, rooftops |
| Koukaki | Neighbourhood tavernas, speciality coffee, bistros |
| Pangrati and Exarchia | Low prices, authentic cooking, local clientele |
| Kolonaki | Elegant restaurants, brunch, pastry shops |
| Piraeus and the Riviera | Fish and seafood, dinners by the sea |
Wine and drinks
Attica is a wine region: the savatiano grape is the basis of retsina, white wine flavoured with pine resin, drunk chilled from a jug with mezedes. Athenian wine lists also offer excellent wines from Santorini, Macedonia and the Peloponnese. Ouzo and tsipouro are drunk diluted with water and ice, always with something to eat. See Greek wine and ouzo.
Times, prices and tips
- Athenians lunch between 2 and 4 pm and dine from 9 pm; many kitchens stay open until midnight.
- Bread and sometimes water arrive without asking and are charged as a small cover.
- Beware of places with waiters touting passers-by and photo menus in many languages.
- Dishes are shared: order several plates for the middle of the table, Greek-style.
- Fish is priced by the kilo: ask the weight and price before it is cooked.
- At the end of the meal a small sweet or a shot often arrives on the house.