Unlike many European capitals, Athens has no single, orderly historic centre. The ancient city was rebuilt many times, and the modern one grew quickly in successive waves, absorbing villages, fields and hills. The result is a mosaic of neighbourhoods (geitonies), each with a distinct identity that Athenians proudly defend. The tourist heart is the triangle between Syntagma, Monastiraki and the Acropolis, which you can cross on foot in a quarter of an hour.
Map of the areas
| Neighbourhood | Character | For whom |
|---|---|---|
| Plaka and Anafiotika | Historic, picturesque, pedestrian, very touristy | First visit, romantics |
| Monastiraki | Market, square, metro, Roman ruins | Those who want to be at the centre of everything |
| Psyrri | Bars, tavernas, music, street art | Nightlife |
| Thissio | Archaeological promenade, cafés with Acropolis views | Couples, photographers |
| Syntagma | Institutional, shopping, transport | Short trips, convenience |
| Kolonaki | Elegant, boutiques, museums, cafés | Style and calm |
| Koukaki and Makrygianni | Residential, close to the Acropolis and its museum | Stays of a few days, families |
| Exarchia | Students, bookshops, politics, murals | Curious and young travellers |
| Gazi and Kerameikos | Former industrial area, clubs and bars | Nights out |
| Pangrati | Authentic neighbourhood life, tavernas | Living like an Athenian |
| Omonia and Metaxourgeio | Working-class, multi-ethnic, changing | Tight budgets, with care at night |
| Riviera | Sea, beaches, seafront | Summer, relaxing |
The historic centre
Plaka is the oldest quarter, at the foot of the Acropolis's north side: neoclassical houses, Byzantine chapels, flowery stairways and tavernas with outdoor tables. Above it, Anafiotika looks like a Cycladic village. Monastiraki is the crossroads: square, metro, flea market and views of the rock. To the west, Thissio overlooks the Agora and the archaeological promenade, with cafés and open-air cinemas. All these areas are very convenient for a first visit, but also the most expensive and crowded.
The modern centre
Syntagma is the square of Parliament and the transport hub; from here run Ermou Street, pedestrian and full of shops, and the grand avenues. Further north, Omonia is the other great square of the 19th-century city, now more working-class and somewhat neglected, with the central market and multi-ethnic neighbourhoods around it. Between the two lies the commercial triangle, with wholesale shops, workshops and hidden bars. See markets and shopping.
The elegant areas
Kolonaki, on the slopes of Lycabettus, is the district of the Athenian bourgeoisie: boutiques, art galleries, museums, embassies and cafés where people go to see and be seen. Further north, Kifissia is the leafy suburb of villas and department stores, reached by metro line 1. To the south, Riviera districts such as Glyfada and Vouliagmeni are the most sought-after residential areas.
The young and alternative areas
Exarchia is the neighbourhood of students, intellectuals and political movements, with bookshops, cheap bars and walls covered in murals. Psyrri, once an artisans' quarter, has become a district of bars. Gazi, around the former gasworks, and Kerameikos are the club areas. Pangrati, behind the stadium, and Koukaki, below Philopappos, are residential districts with lively street life, popular with visitors who want to leave the tourist circuit.
The municipalities of Greater Athens
Beyond the central municipality, the metropolitan area includes dozens of independent municipalities, some with over a hundred thousand inhabitants: from Piraeus to Peristeri, from Kallithea to Marousi. See the municipalities of Greater Athens.
Where to stay
For a first visit choose between Plaka, Monastiraki, Syntagma, Koukaki and Makrygianni: you can walk everywhere. For a longer stay or with family, Koukaki and Pangrati offer more calm and better prices. Omonia and Metaxourgeio are cheap but less pleasant at night. See where to stay in Athens.