Plaka is Athens' oldest neighbourhood, continuously inhabited for millennia on the north and east slopes of the Acropolis. When Athens became capital in 1834 it was practically the whole city. Today it is a maze of pedestrian streets, small squares and stairways, with pastel neoclassical houses, wrought-iron balconies, bougainvillea and tavernas with outdoor tables. It is also the most touristy district, but you only need to stray a few streets from the main ones to find quiet corners.
What to see
| Place | Why |
|---|---|
| Adrianou Street | The oldest street in the city still in use, with souvenir, jewellery and icon shops |
| Kydathineon Street | Cafés, tavernas and little Filomousou Square, the heart of neighbourhood life |
| Lysicrates Monument | A small circular shrine of 334 BC, built to celebrate a theatre chorus's victory; Lord Byron stayed next door |
| St Nicholas Rangavas | 11th-century Byzantine church, see Byzantine churches |
| Musical Instruments Museum | Traditional Greek instruments to listen to, see museums |
| Museum of Greek Folk Art and Ottoman baths | Costumes and traditions, and a restored 17th-century hammam |
| Mnisikleous Street | A stairway lined with taverna tables climbing towards the rock |
| Little Metropolis and cathedral | On the border with Syntagma and Monastiraki |
Anafiotika
Climbing Plaka's highest lanes, almost touching the rocks of the Acropolis, you suddenly enter another world: Anafiotika, a tiny village of cube-shaped white houses, little stairs, cats and pots of geraniums that seems transplanted from a Cycladic island. It was built in the mid-19th century by builders from the island of Anafi, brought to Athens for the building sites of the new capital and the royal palace: to feel at home, they put up their houses without permits in their island's style, often in a single night, relying, so the story goes, on an old Ottoman-era rule that protected houses already roofed by dawn. About fifty houses remain, still lived in: visit discreetly and quietly. The chapels of Agios Georgios tou Vrachou and Agios Simeon mark the route.
Eating in Plaka
Plaka has countless tavernas, but not all are good: those with waiters stopping passers-by and photo menus in ten languages are often expensive and mediocre. There are exceptions: old tavernas with wine barrels and tables on the stairs, traditional cafés for a Greek coffee or a glass of ouzo, pastry shops selling loukoumades, honey fritters. See where to eat in Athens.
Tips
- The best time is the evening, when the Acropolis is lit up and the cruise passengers have left.
- Plaka is a good place to stay but prices are high; Koukaki and Makrygianni, on the other side of the rock, are a quieter alternative.
- From Plaka's upper streets you can walk to the Acropolis's east entrance and the archaeological promenade.
See also Monastiraki and Psyrri, Syntagma and Athens neighbourhoods.