Monastiraki is the crossroads of old Athens, halfway between Syntagma, the Agora and Plaka. The name, "little monastery", comes from the Pantanassa church, once part of a large convent, which stands on the square. Around it are the Tzistarakis mosque, built in 1759 by the Ottoman governor (today housing a ceramics collection of the Folk Art Museum), the columned facade of Hadrian's Library and the metro station exit, from which you can see the Acropolis. It is one of the liveliest and most photographed spots in the city.
The flea market
From Monastiraki Square runs Ifestou Street, the coppersmiths' street, now full of shops selling shoes, army surplus, souvenirs, old records and bric-a-brac. The real flea market is in the lanes around Avissinias Square, with shops selling antique furniture, copperware, paintings, books and postcards; on Sunday mornings sellers also lay out goods in the street. Haggling is normal.
Souvlaki row
At the start of Mitropoleos Street, a few steps from the square, are some of Athens' most famous souvlaki joints, open for decades, with outdoor tables and the smell of grilled meat, pitta and onion. Souvlaki in pitta is the fast meal par excellence: cheap, tasty and served until late at night. See where to eat in Athens.
The rooftops
The buildings around the square house several rooftop bars and terrace restaurants with Acropolis views, among the city's busiest at sunset. Book ahead in summer. See nightlife.
Psyrri
North of Ermou Street, beyond the square, begins Psyrri, a district of lanes once home to artisans, tanners and small traders, with a reputation as a rough area until the 1990s. Today it is one of the centres of nightlife: Iroon Square and the surrounding streets are full of bars, tavernas with live music, mezedopolia and venues where you can hear rebetiko. By day it keeps shops selling baskets, leather and tools, and its shutters and walls are covered in colourful murals. See street art.
Between Monastiraki and the central market
Walking up Athinas Street towards Omonia you reach the central market (Varvakios), with the spice, olive, cheese and charcuterie shops of Evripidou Street: one of the most authentic experiences in Athens. See markets and shopping.
Tips
- The area is safe but very crowded: watch out for pickpockets on the metro, on the square and in the market.
- The flea market is most interesting on Sunday mornings.
- Psyrri comes alive after 10 pm and stays busy until late; at weekends it is very noisy.
See also Hadrian's Library, Plaka and Athens neighbourhoods.